JEANIUS!

Betty Barclay

Cotton Traders

Whether they're for workwear, laid-back daytime casual or glammed up evening, blue denim jeans deserve a drum roll as one of the most versatile garments in history. Trends come and go but there is always a place for denim, be it a classic pair of Levi's or the latest high-street embroidered version. 

No matter how many fabulous clothes you have in your wardrobe, if you've got a great fitting pair of jeans, the chances are they're your favourite, go to item of clothing.  You probably wear them more than anything else and they represent the best value for money in your closet.  

Finding the right pair of jeans means a little bit of research. It's worth spending time and effort trying on different brands, styles and cuts to work out what suits you best. If you are going to be wearing them on a regular basis, invest in a pair (or pairs) that are going to give a you a good return for your money.

Here's my advice for jeans that flatter:

* Find the right style and cut to flatter your body.
* Find out which details and finishes are flattering for you (dark rinses are more slimming, vertical creases lengthen, turn-ups can shorten, pockets can add bulk, whiskering can widen, fading can highlight).
* Try styles in both smaller and bigger sizes to find the perfect fit.
* Take the shoes with you that you intend to wear with your jeans. Buy a couple of pairs of jeans in different lengths to cater for various heel heights/occasions.
*Use accessories and fashionable items to update your jeans. A fabulous, eye catching jacket can upscale the look of your jeans as can a glitzy top and high heels take them from casual to glamorous.

Matalan

Curvy?

Look for a bit of stretch with a bootcut, straight or flared leg. High waists will lengthen legs and flatten tummies.  Avoid loose, slouchy cuts. Dark washes are the most slimming.  Opt for clean lines and minimal detailing. Finding a pair that fit on the hips and bum sometimes means a gap on the waistline so find a tailor to nip it in for you. Take a look at Levis and Salsa ranges.

Petite?

Skinny jeans and ankle length styles will flatter petites. If you prefer a bootcut style then always wear with heels. Look out for vertical details (like a front crease) which will help to elongate the leg. A natural waistline is often the best. Check out petite ranges and brands that offer shorter leg lengths.

Tummy?

Opt for a higher waistband or one that sits slightly lower than your natural waistline. Avoid any waistband that sits at or digs in at your belly button. Bootcut styles will balance out proportions and a dark rinse will be most flattering. A skinny jean will emphasise a top heavy body.

Big Bottom?

A bootcut in a dark wash is best. Avoid small rear pockets and embellishments which will make the bottom look bigger and instead, choose larger, centred pockets.

Flat Bottom?

Look for details and embellishments on the rear pockets to give the illusion of more. Smaller, high pockets will also help make the bottom look bigger.  Avoid boyfriend styles and opt instead for a slim cut that hugs your backside.

Long Legs?

Long Tall Sally

If you've got long legs and a short body, a lower rise will balance out proportions. Avoid high waisted styles.  A top worn on the outside will also balance proportions. Look out for brands that cater for longer leg lengths. 
Try Long Tall Sally, M&S, J Brand.

So what's new for 2017?

• Vertical details such as creases & stripes                 
• Raw Hems                           
• Embroidery

Stripes from Topshop

Front Seam detail from Next

    Vertical details can elongate and slim the leg. Great for petites. 

Raw Hems from Very

  Raw edges and rips will interest those who like an edgier vibe to their denim

Dorothy Perkins

Embroidery will  appeal to those who want to add some femininity to their look. Embroidery can also be used to add bulk to those areas where you want to create a bit more oomph, details on rear pockets will boost a flat bottom.

All photos courtesy of www.prshots.com

WHAT'S YOUR STYLE?

Many clients cite 'too much choice' or 'feel overwhelmed' as reasons for disliking or putting off shopping. You could, of course, hire me to help steer you through the minefield of options available but with a little bit of know how and research, you can determine your own needs before stepping out the door or hitting the search button!

Basic rule is to think about what works for you and for this you need to look  at your lifestyle and personal style. 

Lifestyle refers to where and how you live, work and play. The weather, your job, your social life, hobbies and budget determine many of your clothing needs and these can change throughout life.
For example, If you work as a full time landscape gardener, most of your wardrobe will comprise  practical clothes that are going to protect you from the environment. A much smaller proportion of your wardrobe will be given to dresses and high heels. 

Personal Style refers to your personality, body shape and proportions and your colouring. I've referred to dressing for your body shape and colour and the art of shopping in previous posts so you can check those out if you want to learn more but here I want to focus on your personality. 

What kind of dresser are you? Do you like to show off or to you prefer to be more subtle? Do you put comfort before fashion? Do you want to flaunt your femininity?

Your choice of pattern, colour, texture and style is down to your personality. Your preferences will determine the types of clothes you like to wear, feel most comfortable in and express your individuality. By understanding these preferences you can work out which brands of clothing will suit you best and which shops are going to cater for your style. By learning about other styles of dressers you can also ring the changes to your own style and give yourself a fresh look. Knowing the pros and cons of the different styles of dressing means you will get the best out of your own style, help you avoid getting stuck in a rut and enable you to look up-to-date and current. 

Look at the examples below and figure out which describes you best. If you are a 'Natural' dresser and you want to be more dramatic, look at the words used to describe that dresser and next time you shop try to incorporate something that would illustrate that type of dresser. 


DRAMATIC: The key word is attention. Dramatic dressers come in two main types; the high maintenance and follower of trends and fashion and the highly individualised approach to dressing. Dramatic dressers like to make a statement and like unusual, bolder or oversized jewellery and accessories. They like colour, colour combinations, large or abstract prints and textures. The silhouette may be overall or in part exaggerated. Hair and make up are definite. 

At best the dramatic dresser can have high impact and glamour that grabs attention. At worst can have a confused or chaotic look.

Bound to be noticed with on trend cut away shoulders & glamorous leather skirt.

CLASSIC: The key word is timeless. Classic dressers prefer to look smart and well groomed. Emphasis is often placed on quality and style rather than quantity and fashion. They go for structure, tailoring and co-ordination. Colour combinations, accessories, jewellery and make up are carefully selected but understated not overstated. 

At best the classic dresser can look sharp, smart, groomed and stylish.At worst can look outdated, boring or frumpy.

ROMANTIC: The key word is femininity.  Romantic dressers prefer more unstructured, softer lines and styles which give movement and fluidity. They like pretty blouses and skirts rather than plain shirts and trousers. Colour choice is usually pastel and prints, floral and small. They like ruffles, ribbons, bows, embroidery and embellishment. Jewellery is usually delicate, curvaceous and pretty and accessories usually have details. Make up is usually natural and pretty and hair may be longer.

At best the romantic dresser can look feminine and alluring.

At worst can look girly and frilly.

NATURAL: The key word is comfort. Natural dressers have a more relaxed approach which can be pared down to a minimalist look. Not usually prepared to sacrifice comfort for fashion or style. Tend to use neutral colours, plains not prints. They like unstructured styles and prefer looser fits to tighter fits. They like touchy feely textures and natural, soft fabrics. Make-up is usually natural and minimal and hair easy maintenance.

At best the natural dresser can look chic and elegant.
At worst can look scruffy and under groomed.

SPORTY: The key word is practical. Sporty dressers have a practical approach to dressing and put comfort and clothes they can move in before fashion and style. They like jeans and jean cut trousers, gilets, jumpers, practical style jackets, unisex styles and high tec fabrics. Some sporty dressers never wear skirts or dresses and won’t aspire to an overtly sexy or glamorous look even for evening or party wear. Make-up is usually little or none and hair is usually short and low maintenance.
At best the sporty dresser can look youthful, gamine and energetic.
At worst can be look too casual, boyish and unfeminine.




Photos courtesy of www.prshots.com

IT'S A COVER UP JOB!

It feels like it’s been a bumper summer for weddings and special occasion dressing.  Several friends, as well as clients, have asked my advice on outfits. The majority wanted to go with a dress but time and time again we found what might have been the perfect dress if only it had sleeves! Designers listen up!

It’s a common complaint, especially in the summertime and many women feel uncomfortable about showing their arms citing sagging skin, fat arms, thin arms, uneven texture and of course bingo wings. So, we have to be sleeve savvy and think of ways of wearing sleeveless but concealing those less than perfectly toned arms.

Lace Dress by Studio Eight

Try these options:

Sheer, lace or crocheted sleeves which give a hint of skin.

A shrug or cropped jacket.

Pashmina or shawl.

Cropped Jacket by Laura Ashley

Pashmina from Cashmere Rebel

And what about sleeves in general?
The length, style and shape of a sleeve impacts on your body shape and proportions. 

Where there’s a line the eye will rest so bear in mind that:

Short sleeves draw attention to the bust

3/4 sleeves draw attention to the waist 

7/8 and long sleeves draw attention to the hips (and away from the bust and waist)

3/4 sleeve dress from Studio Eight

Long sleeve T from the Pure Collection

Short sleeve T from the Pure Collection

If you’ve got thin arms:

Cover with longer sleeves.

Avoid clingy fabrics and full, bulky sleeves which just make thin arms look thinner.

Beware of armholes that are too big and hang too low.

Try a slight puff sleeve or sleeve details such as ties and bows which will add volume.

Get rid of big voluminous sleeves which look as if you can’t fill them.

Horizontal details will make the arm look fuller.

Horizontal stripes from La Redoute

Tie sleeves from La Redoute

Jewellery tip! Wear a fine bracelet, a chunky bracelet will make your arm look thinner.

If you’ve got heavy arms:

Bell sleeve dress from Very

Opt for a  sleeve that is relaxed rather than loose. Avoid tight and clingy.

Choose at least 3/4 length and avoid short sleeves especially those with cuffs.
Try a long bell sleeve (unless you have wide hips/large thighs).
Avoid bulky sleeves and texture.

Avoid horizontal stripes and instead look out for vertical stripes to give a slimmer look.

Jewellery tip! Go for a chunky, heavier bracelet which will make your arm appear slimmer.

Vertical stripes from La Redoute

A cap sleeve and horizontal stripes will draw attention away from wide hips and emphasise the shoulders and upper body. Avoid this style if you have dominant shoulders or big bust.
Top from La Redoute

.

Pushing your sleeves up to 3/4 length can make your legs appear longer!

La Redoute

All photographs courtesy of www.prshots.com 

STYLE HEROES

It's that time of year when magazines and newspapers offer their advice on what's hot for the season and my inbox is full with messages from retailers telling me what delights they have in store for me. With that plethora of information already available, I am only going to comment on what I consider to be top style heroes for S/S 2016.

Off the Shoulder

A flash of bare shoulder has become the subtle way to show some skin and the off the shoulder silhouette is everywhere. Peasant style blouses and tops with cut out shoulders can be found in designer boutiques and high street stores. The shoulder is certainly the new erogenous zone and for most women it's an area of the body that they are happy to reveal. 

Jacques Vert 

However, when deciding whether or not this trend is for you, remember, lines create optical illusions so make sure those lines work for you and flatter your proportions.

If you're pear-shaped (wider at the hips) an off the shoulder top or a top with diagonal lines that angle out toward the outer part of your shoulders is great for making your shoulders appear wider, thus balancing your body. Avoid halter necks or those that create the look of one with lines that angle inwards.

If your shoulders are broad you can go for the halter neck illusion and try vertical stripes or seams that will make shoulders appear less wide.

The Brooch

Definitely on my radar. What an easy and fun way to amp up a blouse or to add feminity to a masculine shirt or to add an extra touch of chic to an evening dress. Get your retro feel accessory from your Granny's jewellery box or take a look at beautiful bug brooches at River Island or oriental flower pins at Topshop. 

River Island

Top Shop

Play around with the placement of the brooch, pinning it where you want to draw attention, it doesn't have to be stuck to your lapel! You can even create interest by grouping a few smaller ones together.

The Skirt

A fabulously feminine staple, the skirt can show off your legs and physique. A couple of skirts have caught my eye this season. They are all midi lengths which unfortunately for me, being petite, is a length that does me no favours. However, that doesn't stop me looking at the menu for my taller sisters! Marks & Spencer have a green leather wrap skirt in their Autograph range that I think will be as popular as last season's sell-out suede midi skirt and Topshop have a 'paperbag' waisted midi that is elegant and edgy at the same time. 

Marks and Spencer

There are lots of pleated skirts about too, especially knife pleats but watch out if you're curvy or have a tummy, pleats can be unforgiving. However, if your figure is boyish with narrow hips, a pleated style can be a winner.

New Look 

The Shirt Dress

New Look

River Island

A great summer basic and a style which will suit most body shapes. Available in mini and maxi lengths and in a range of colours, prints and fabrics. This easy peasy dress will be one of your most versatile purchases this season.

Oh and one trend I won't be considering: irregular ornamentation (one statement earring or two different ones). I know a few women who could pull this look off but I would just look as if I had forgotten something!

Remember, only buy into a trend if it suits you not because it's fashion!

Photos courtesy of www.prshots.com

WHAT DO YOU WEAR TO WORK?

What happens if you don’t wear a space suit when travelling through space? Apparently, this is one of the most frequently asked questions about space travel and we have come to recognise the iconic space suit as the uniform of space travellers.  Obviously, an astronaut’s suit is more than just a uniform (it stops your blood boiling for one) but it made me think about wearing a uniform for more earthly professions and duties.

A friend of mine recently started a new job in which she has to wear a uniform. A snappy and individual dresser, she was grouchy that she was going to be wearing the same outfit day in and day out. However, as I pointed out to her, a uniform or dress code isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

What we wear can affect how we perform and how we are perceived by others. Cognitive psychologists (Adam & Galinsky) believe that clothing holds symbolic meaning and that by wearing it (or in some cases just looking at it) could enhance how we perform. They found that when a person ascribes a symbolic stereotype to an item of clothing (for example, a doctor’s coat) and then a person wears that article, it has measurable effects on their state of mind and performance. They call this ‘enclothed cognition’.  

I told my friend to use these findings to her benefit when getting dressed in her uniform. I suggested that she think about what the uniform symbolises to her.  Professional, skilled, knowledgeable, capable, part of a team? If she associates these attributes with her uniform so will others and they will seek her out as the expert she is. 

We can all look in our own wardrobes and find more than one article of clothing to which we can assign a positive state of mind. Think of the dress you wore when you nailed that presentation or the tie that makes you feel powerful and confident. Think of and attach positive adjectives to your clothes and in doing so, shape your behaviour when you wear them.

The other advantage of a uniform or minimalist clothing is that it eases the burden of deciding what to wear each day and avoids decision fatigue. Indeed, President Obama is known for wearing only grey or blue suits because he has too many other decisions to make without having to think about what to wear to the office!  Find out what flatters you and make it your signature ensemble.

Interestingly, fashion designers and fashionistas often have their own uniform. Maybe they have used up all their creative energy at work but they very often choose a certain look and stick to it. They know what works for them and their ‘uniform’ becomes their trademark.  Karl Lagerfeld is a classic example. 

So uniform doesn’t have to mean boring, think of it as liberating, consistent, productive and 

powerful!

ONLY THE BEST FOR MR BOND!

I recently saw a photograph of Daniel Craig in his role as James Bond. Undoubtedly, he looked good but I couldn't help notice that his suit jacket appeared to be a little on the tight side!

Buttoned up, it formed  X shaped lines around the waist area which indicated that the jacket may have been too tight. For any man, let alone a secret agent with a demanding physical occupation, a jacket should allow enough movement so that when buttoned, it lies flat across the chest and stomach. 

So guys, a few tips about jackets:

Suit by Burton Menswear (Callum Best range) 
photo courtesy of www.prshots.com

• Find a good tailor and learn as much as possible about your own body shape and proportions. Small alterations can make a massive difference. 
• Proper fitting can elevate an inexpensive jacket but an ill-fitting jacket, even one with a hefty price tag, will not look elegant or stylish.
• There should be no wrinkling or bunching across the back and no pulling across the shoulders.
• The jacket's shoulders are showcasing your head so they need to be the best fit possible. If they are too narrow your head can appear overly large and if they are too wide, they can make your head look disproportionately small.
• A jacket is the right length when it covers the curvature of the buttocks (the point where your bottom starts to curve under) whilst giving the leg as long a line as possible. Many tailors work by measuring the distance from the jacket's back collar to the floor, then dividing in half but this is an approximate guide and length will ultimately be determined by your proportions. Another commonly used method is to use your arm as a guide. When your hand is by your side, the bottom of the jacket should line up with the knuckle of your thumb but again this is just a guide because arm length can very from person to person.
• Your  jacket collar should not stand away from your neck but sit next to your shirt collar and it should allow for at least 1/2 inch of shirt collar to show above it.
• Sleeves should finish where the wrist breaks with the hand and the length should allow for 1/2 inch of shirt sleeve to show below the jacket cuff. 
• Even though 007 has lots of cool gadgets, don't be tempted  to overload your jacket pockets with boys' toys or bulky items because they will spoil the sleek lines of your jacket.

WITH A FRINGE ON TOP!

I recently posted about a dress by Lipstick Boutique which attracted so much interest that I decided to give another one of their dresses an outing.

Anything with fringing brings out the country and western in me and with fringing still on trend this season I couldn't resist their Sistaglam Alison dress.

When I received my dress I was immediately impressed because it was virtually crease free (always useful to know for travelling).

My initial thoughts when I tried it on was that it fitted (true to size) and draped beautifully. For me, at 5' 2", it was a nice length, however, it revealed a little too much cleavage for my liking. I easily remedied this by inserting a modesty panel which looked integral to the dress and made me feel more comfortable. 

My other concern was that, given the nature of the fabric, it would be clingy but that wasn't the case at all and it didn't ride up or create static, probably helped by the fact that it's fully lined.

I teamed it with a pair of silver and black heels and matching bag for a luxe finish but I wanted a slightly edgier look so I topped it off with my black leather biker jacket. I've got a dinner date coming up in a more sophisticated setting so I'll be wearing my tailored cape for a more polished look.

I received loads of compliments and I was delighted with the comfort and feel of the dress. The fringes created a lot of interest and I loved the way they moved as I danced! Definitely a fabulous, fun dress to wear!

Sistaglam Alison Bodycon Dress
Photo courtesy of Lipstick Boutique

Looking for a little black dress?
This is a body con dress, it's revealing and will show any bulges so it may not be the right style for your figure. However, Lipstick have a great range of styles to choose from so take a look at my LBD style tips below then check out the site.
http://www.lipstickboutique.co.uk/category/sistaglam/sistaglam-alison-black-fringe-bodycon-dress-1215

My tips for a LBD:

• Black may not be the best colour on you so find your flattering alternative be it grey, navy or nude.
• It should be figure skimming not figure hugging. Too tight and it will show any lumps and bumps and too loose it will look shapeless and add pounds.
• Choose the shape that works best for you.                                                                
• Pear shaped - hips wider than shoulders - showcase your slim upper body. Look for details that draw attention upwards and add width to your shoulders, an off-the-shoulder neckline will do this. A two tone dress that is light on the top half and dark on the bottom would also work well.
• Inverted triangle - shoulders wider than hips - avoid necklines that make your shoulders look wider  such as boat or horizontal. Choose a V-neck with an A-line skirt which will bring fullness to your lower half.
• Big busted - tailored V-neck shift dress or sheath is the best option. Avoid tunic styles and avoid wide belts or waistbands.
• Curvy - go for semi fitted styles that follow your curves and show off your waistline. Look for wrap, sheath or belted styles.
• Boyish - ruching, pleating and clever draping can give the impression of a more feminine figure as will an A-line. Avoid anything too voluminous.
• Apple shaped - rounded tummy - avoid anything that accentuates the waist. Shift dresses , subtle A-line and empire waistlines will work. Keep the neckline open and stick to drapey fabrics that move.
• Petite - your best hemline starts at the knee and either goes up or completely to the floor. Keep it simple and go for styles that will accentuate your petite frame rather than overwhelm it. Look for vertical details that add length such as seams and piping.