IT'S A COVER UP JOB!

It feels like it’s been a bumper summer for weddings and special occasion dressing.  Several friends, as well as clients, have asked my advice on outfits. The majority wanted to go with a dress but time and time again we found what might have been the perfect dress if only it had sleeves! Designers listen up!

It’s a common complaint, especially in the summertime and many women feel uncomfortable about showing their arms citing sagging skin, fat arms, thin arms, uneven texture and of course bingo wings. So, we have to be sleeve savvy and think of ways of wearing sleeveless but concealing those less than perfectly toned arms.

Lace Dress by Studio Eight

Try these options:

Sheer, lace or crocheted sleeves which give a hint of skin.

A shrug or cropped jacket.

Pashmina or shawl.

Cropped Jacket by Laura Ashley

Pashmina from Cashmere Rebel

And what about sleeves in general?
The length, style and shape of a sleeve impacts on your body shape and proportions. 

Where there’s a line the eye will rest so bear in mind that:

Short sleeves draw attention to the bust

3/4 sleeves draw attention to the waist 

7/8 and long sleeves draw attention to the hips (and away from the bust and waist)

3/4 sleeve dress from Studio Eight

Long sleeve T from the Pure Collection

Short sleeve T from the Pure Collection

If you’ve got thin arms:

Cover with longer sleeves.

Avoid clingy fabrics and full, bulky sleeves which just make thin arms look thinner.

Beware of armholes that are too big and hang too low.

Try a slight puff sleeve or sleeve details such as ties and bows which will add volume.

Get rid of big voluminous sleeves which look as if you can’t fill them.

Horizontal details will make the arm look fuller.

Horizontal stripes from La Redoute

Tie sleeves from La Redoute

Jewellery tip! Wear a fine bracelet, a chunky bracelet will make your arm look thinner.

If you’ve got heavy arms:

Bell sleeve dress from Very

Opt for a  sleeve that is relaxed rather than loose. Avoid tight and clingy.

Choose at least 3/4 length and avoid short sleeves especially those with cuffs.
Try a long bell sleeve (unless you have wide hips/large thighs).
Avoid bulky sleeves and texture.

Avoid horizontal stripes and instead look out for vertical stripes to give a slimmer look.

Jewellery tip! Go for a chunky, heavier bracelet which will make your arm appear slimmer.

Vertical stripes from La Redoute

A cap sleeve and horizontal stripes will draw attention away from wide hips and emphasise the shoulders and upper body. Avoid this style if you have dominant shoulders or big bust.
Top from La Redoute

.

Pushing your sleeves up to 3/4 length can make your legs appear longer!

La Redoute

All photographs courtesy of www.prshots.com 

STYLE HEROES

It's that time of year when magazines and newspapers offer their advice on what's hot for the season and my inbox is full with messages from retailers telling me what delights they have in store for me. With that plethora of information already available, I am only going to comment on what I consider to be top style heroes for S/S 2016.

Off the Shoulder

A flash of bare shoulder has become the subtle way to show some skin and the off the shoulder silhouette is everywhere. Peasant style blouses and tops with cut out shoulders can be found in designer boutiques and high street stores. The shoulder is certainly the new erogenous zone and for most women it's an area of the body that they are happy to reveal. 

Jacques Vert 

However, when deciding whether or not this trend is for you, remember, lines create optical illusions so make sure those lines work for you and flatter your proportions.

If you're pear-shaped (wider at the hips) an off the shoulder top or a top with diagonal lines that angle out toward the outer part of your shoulders is great for making your shoulders appear wider, thus balancing your body. Avoid halter necks or those that create the look of one with lines that angle inwards.

If your shoulders are broad you can go for the halter neck illusion and try vertical stripes or seams that will make shoulders appear less wide.

The Brooch

Definitely on my radar. What an easy and fun way to amp up a blouse or to add feminity to a masculine shirt or to add an extra touch of chic to an evening dress. Get your retro feel accessory from your Granny's jewellery box or take a look at beautiful bug brooches at River Island or oriental flower pins at Topshop. 

River Island

Top Shop

Play around with the placement of the brooch, pinning it where you want to draw attention, it doesn't have to be stuck to your lapel! You can even create interest by grouping a few smaller ones together.

The Skirt

A fabulously feminine staple, the skirt can show off your legs and physique. A couple of skirts have caught my eye this season. They are all midi lengths which unfortunately for me, being petite, is a length that does me no favours. However, that doesn't stop me looking at the menu for my taller sisters! Marks & Spencer have a green leather wrap skirt in their Autograph range that I think will be as popular as last season's sell-out suede midi skirt and Topshop have a 'paperbag' waisted midi that is elegant and edgy at the same time. 

Marks and Spencer

There are lots of pleated skirts about too, especially knife pleats but watch out if you're curvy or have a tummy, pleats can be unforgiving. However, if your figure is boyish with narrow hips, a pleated style can be a winner.

New Look 

The Shirt Dress

New Look

River Island

A great summer basic and a style which will suit most body shapes. Available in mini and maxi lengths and in a range of colours, prints and fabrics. This easy peasy dress will be one of your most versatile purchases this season.

Oh and one trend I won't be considering: irregular ornamentation (one statement earring or two different ones). I know a few women who could pull this look off but I would just look as if I had forgotten something!

Remember, only buy into a trend if it suits you not because it's fashion!

Photos courtesy of www.prshots.com

WHAT DO YOU WEAR TO WORK?

What happens if you don’t wear a space suit when travelling through space? Apparently, this is one of the most frequently asked questions about space travel and we have come to recognise the iconic space suit as the uniform of space travellers.  Obviously, an astronaut’s suit is more than just a uniform (it stops your blood boiling for one) but it made me think about wearing a uniform for more earthly professions and duties.

A friend of mine recently started a new job in which she has to wear a uniform. A snappy and individual dresser, she was grouchy that she was going to be wearing the same outfit day in and day out. However, as I pointed out to her, a uniform or dress code isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

What we wear can affect how we perform and how we are perceived by others. Cognitive psychologists (Adam & Galinsky) believe that clothing holds symbolic meaning and that by wearing it (or in some cases just looking at it) could enhance how we perform. They found that when a person ascribes a symbolic stereotype to an item of clothing (for example, a doctor’s coat) and then a person wears that article, it has measurable effects on their state of mind and performance. They call this ‘enclothed cognition’.  

I told my friend to use these findings to her benefit when getting dressed in her uniform. I suggested that she think about what the uniform symbolises to her.  Professional, skilled, knowledgeable, capable, part of a team? If she associates these attributes with her uniform so will others and they will seek her out as the expert she is. 

We can all look in our own wardrobes and find more than one article of clothing to which we can assign a positive state of mind. Think of the dress you wore when you nailed that presentation or the tie that makes you feel powerful and confident. Think of and attach positive adjectives to your clothes and in doing so, shape your behaviour when you wear them.

The other advantage of a uniform or minimalist clothing is that it eases the burden of deciding what to wear each day and avoids decision fatigue. Indeed, President Obama is known for wearing only grey or blue suits because he has too many other decisions to make without having to think about what to wear to the office!  Find out what flatters you and make it your signature ensemble.

Interestingly, fashion designers and fashionistas often have their own uniform. Maybe they have used up all their creative energy at work but they very often choose a certain look and stick to it. They know what works for them and their ‘uniform’ becomes their trademark.  Karl Lagerfeld is a classic example. 

So uniform doesn’t have to mean boring, think of it as liberating, consistent, productive and 

powerful!

ONLY THE BEST FOR MR BOND!

I recently saw a photograph of Daniel Craig in his role as James Bond. Undoubtedly, he looked good but I couldn't help notice that his suit jacket appeared to be a little on the tight side!

Buttoned up, it formed  X shaped lines around the waist area which indicated that the jacket may have been too tight. For any man, let alone a secret agent with a demanding physical occupation, a jacket should allow enough movement so that when buttoned, it lies flat across the chest and stomach. 

So guys, a few tips about jackets:

Suit by Burton Menswear (Callum Best range) 
photo courtesy of www.prshots.com

• Find a good tailor and learn as much as possible about your own body shape and proportions. Small alterations can make a massive difference. 
• Proper fitting can elevate an inexpensive jacket but an ill-fitting jacket, even one with a hefty price tag, will not look elegant or stylish.
• There should be no wrinkling or bunching across the back and no pulling across the shoulders.
• The jacket's shoulders are showcasing your head so they need to be the best fit possible. If they are too narrow your head can appear overly large and if they are too wide, they can make your head look disproportionately small.
• A jacket is the right length when it covers the curvature of the buttocks (the point where your bottom starts to curve under) whilst giving the leg as long a line as possible. Many tailors work by measuring the distance from the jacket's back collar to the floor, then dividing in half but this is an approximate guide and length will ultimately be determined by your proportions. Another commonly used method is to use your arm as a guide. When your hand is by your side, the bottom of the jacket should line up with the knuckle of your thumb but again this is just a guide because arm length can very from person to person.
• Your  jacket collar should not stand away from your neck but sit next to your shirt collar and it should allow for at least 1/2 inch of shirt collar to show above it.
• Sleeves should finish where the wrist breaks with the hand and the length should allow for 1/2 inch of shirt sleeve to show below the jacket cuff. 
• Even though 007 has lots of cool gadgets, don't be tempted  to overload your jacket pockets with boys' toys or bulky items because they will spoil the sleek lines of your jacket.

WITH A FRINGE ON TOP!

I recently posted about a dress by Lipstick Boutique which attracted so much interest that I decided to give another one of their dresses an outing.

Anything with fringing brings out the country and western in me and with fringing still on trend this season I couldn't resist their Sistaglam Alison dress.

When I received my dress I was immediately impressed because it was virtually crease free (always useful to know for travelling).

My initial thoughts when I tried it on was that it fitted (true to size) and draped beautifully. For me, at 5' 2", it was a nice length, however, it revealed a little too much cleavage for my liking. I easily remedied this by inserting a modesty panel which looked integral to the dress and made me feel more comfortable. 

My other concern was that, given the nature of the fabric, it would be clingy but that wasn't the case at all and it didn't ride up or create static, probably helped by the fact that it's fully lined.

I teamed it with a pair of silver and black heels and matching bag for a luxe finish but I wanted a slightly edgier look so I topped it off with my black leather biker jacket. I've got a dinner date coming up in a more sophisticated setting so I'll be wearing my tailored cape for a more polished look.

I received loads of compliments and I was delighted with the comfort and feel of the dress. The fringes created a lot of interest and I loved the way they moved as I danced! Definitely a fabulous, fun dress to wear!

Sistaglam Alison Bodycon Dress
Photo courtesy of Lipstick Boutique

Looking for a little black dress?
This is a body con dress, it's revealing and will show any bulges so it may not be the right style for your figure. However, Lipstick have a great range of styles to choose from so take a look at my LBD style tips below then check out the site.
http://www.lipstickboutique.co.uk/category/sistaglam/sistaglam-alison-black-fringe-bodycon-dress-1215

My tips for a LBD:

• Black may not be the best colour on you so find your flattering alternative be it grey, navy or nude.
• It should be figure skimming not figure hugging. Too tight and it will show any lumps and bumps and too loose it will look shapeless and add pounds.
• Choose the shape that works best for you.                                                                
• Pear shaped - hips wider than shoulders - showcase your slim upper body. Look for details that draw attention upwards and add width to your shoulders, an off-the-shoulder neckline will do this. A two tone dress that is light on the top half and dark on the bottom would also work well.
• Inverted triangle - shoulders wider than hips - avoid necklines that make your shoulders look wider  such as boat or horizontal. Choose a V-neck with an A-line skirt which will bring fullness to your lower half.
• Big busted - tailored V-neck shift dress or sheath is the best option. Avoid tunic styles and avoid wide belts or waistbands.
• Curvy - go for semi fitted styles that follow your curves and show off your waistline. Look for wrap, sheath or belted styles.
• Boyish - ruching, pleating and clever draping can give the impression of a more feminine figure as will an A-line. Avoid anything too voluminous.
• Apple shaped - rounded tummy - avoid anything that accentuates the waist. Shift dresses , subtle A-line and empire waistlines will work. Keep the neckline open and stick to drapey fabrics that move.
• Petite - your best hemline starts at the knee and either goes up or completely to the floor. Keep it simple and go for styles that will accentuate your petite frame rather than overwhelm it. Look for vertical details that add length such as seams and piping.

WE'RE IN THE NAVY NOW!

Classy and effortless, I love navy. Either on its own or partnered up, it’s one of my colour heroes. Staple pieces in navy will work hard in your wardrobe and provide you with a framework which can be added to with ease.

La Redoute

It can add elegance to a casual outfit or offer a glamorous alternative to the little black dress. It’s become a style icon when paired with white stripes in a breton top and a navy blazer with jeans is a classic heavyweight. 

Lipstick Boutique

Jigsaw

The great thing is everyone can wear navy, it’s just a matter of finding the right navy for you. If you are cool skin toned then dark navy or charcoal navy will flatter you best whereas marine or french navy will be better for warmer skin tones.



Colour Combinations
Of course, you can keep it classic  with white but think about alternatives that will give it a modern and unexpected look. Think about your own colouring when pairing up, for instance, if you have dark hair and  a cool skin tone then  a pop of a high contrast colour such as fuchsia or bright green will look vibrant on you and fair  haired coolies could go for a softer look with a baby blue or periwinkle additive. 

Marks and Spencer

Questionair

If you have dark hair and warm skin tone then try pairing it with mustard or rich toffee and if you’re fair with a warm skin tone, try with orange or aqua. French women love to pair it with black and this combo can look super chic and confident if it suits your colouring.

Phase Eight

M & Co.

AX Paris

What about the boys in blue?
When advising male clients about creating a capsule wardrobe, my recommendations always include a good dose of navy. It’s clean and masculine and I call it a building block colour because of its versatility and range. 

A few key pieces in navy provide a great bedrock on which to build a stylish wardrobe. Top of the shopping list would be a navy wool suit. It works for business and casual. The jacket can be worn separately (great with a pair of inky blue jeans) and the trousers can be worn with various shirts and knitwear. A navy sweater in a fine knit, a navy cardigan and a navy pea coat would also be on the essentials list.

Burton Menswear

Guys need to think about colour combinations too.  For example,  navy and white with a touch of red will certainly grab attention and give an air of authority but remember such high contrast does not suit everyone’s facial colouring.

Finding out what works with one’s skin and hair tones is key to wearing colour and colour combinations successfully. At the very least, attention should be given to the amount of contrast you have. If your hair is dark and your skin light you have a higher contrast than someone whose hair and skin tone are similar and who, therefore, have a more muted, lower contrast look. Aim to get the colours in an outfit to share the same degree of contrast as your complexion and hair.

All photographs courtesy of www.prshots.com

PACK UP YOUR TROUBLES

Whether it's Torquay or Tuscany, going on a summer holiday is a chance to get away from everyday routines and troubles. However, packing for a holiday can cause angst and last minute panic buying or, worse still, result in either lugging half your wardrobe with you or finding that when you arrive at your destination, what you've packed is completely inappropriate.

Photo: Next

Holiday packing is one of the most common calls for help that I get from friends and clients alike. If nothing else, I am an experienced traveller and over the years have managed to get it down to a fine art and enjoyed compliments on my clothing choices wherever I have laid my hat! It's a formula that works and I'd like to share it with you.




1. Make sure you have a decent case. It should be manageable, lightweight but strong with robust wheels. Always check your airlines's requirements regarding size and weight and don't forget to check the rules for carry on luggage too. I am not going to go into what you can and cannot carry on board because all airlines are different but bear in mind that if you want a smooth transit through security and check in,  you need to do your homework first. Remember to label to your final destination and include a copy of your itinerary inside your case. Very useful if your case gets lost. Luggage all looks the same on the carousel so add an extra flourish to it (coloured ribbon) so that you can identify yours quickly.

Tripp Suitcases from Debenhams

2. Plan ahead! Make a list of what you might need, taking into consideration the length and type of holiday you are going on, the climate and the activities you maybe undertaking. 

3. Think about co-ordinating your colours and patterns. Try creating a capsule wardrobe and build your selection of outfits around one colour scheme (at the most two) so that you can mix and match different styles with ease and create different looks. Below, I've gone for a black and white palette with touches of coral. Look out for multi taskers that can be transformed from day to night, from casual to smart. 

Dune

Dune

Apricot

Next

Miss Selfridge

Next

La Redoute

Shorts & Top La Redoute

Dress by Wallis, Trousers from Next

Accessorize

4. Set out your suitcase a few days before you go and lay out all the items you think you would like to take on your bed. This will help you visualise and assemble your different  looks and enable you to check that you haven't forgotten anything.  You can edit your selection to ensure you have that capsule wardrobe. I always try to leave some space for  any purchases I might make whilst I 'm away. 

5. Do take accessories because you can change the look of an outfit instantly. You can take a dress from casual to glamorous by pairing with heels and sparkly costume jewellery. Other essentials include sunglasses, a hat, bathing suit, a cover-up, beach bag and small clutch bag. Include a few basic tees in colours that will complement your other items. 

Very

Next

Accessorize

Very

Dune

Next

Very

6. When it comes to packing there are two schools of thought. You can roll your clothes which creates more space and avoids creases or if you can't bring yourself to roll, fold your clothes and put a piece of tissue paper in the fold, again to avoid creasing. I've tried both and I've never needed a travel iron yet! I am a big fan of those mesh pouches which I use to separate underwear, swimwear, accessories etc. and I also put my shoes, separately, into bags. I also put a couple of plastic carrier bags in to accommodate any items that will need washing when I get home.

7. Getting to and from. I always travel with a jacket (a denim jacket is very versatile) which can always double if the weather isn't playing fair and I usually carry a super lightweight merino wool or cashmere shawl.

Next

Comfortable shoes are a must and given that most airports ask you to remove them, make sure they are easy to get on and off. Try to keep your carry on to a manageable size and be strict about what you put in there. 


Safe travel and have a happy holiday!




All photos courtesy of www.prshots.com except mesh pouches which belong to me.